Biosynthetics - Bio? Synthetic? Well, which is it?
We admit, the term “biosynthetic” is somehow contradictory. Let’s dispel some myths about biosynthetics!
Since the 2000s, the term “biosynthetics” has been used to describe synthetic fibers of biological origin. To defossilise the textile industry, the globally high share of synthetic fibers must shift from fossil-based to biologically sourced materials – from synthetics to biosynthetics. There are many misconceptions surrounding this term, with people often confusing biosynthetics or assuming that all bio-based materials are automatically sustainable. The following text addresses five key misconceptions.
1. “Synthetic” always means non-natural origin.
Wrong. “Biosynthetics” is a general term for bio-based polymer fibres, one of many applications for polymers. Alongside cellulose fibres, they are an excellent option for reducing the use of fossil fibres in textiles. They are derived wholly or partly from natural, renewable sources like sugar beet, sugar cane or wood. Biosynthetics offer a powerful alternative to traditional synthetic, fossil-based fibres – with both performance and technical properties that make them drop-in, smart drop-in and dedicated replacements.
2. Biosynthetics can be made from recycled plastic bottles.
Wrong. Plastic bottles are made from PET, a polymer, specifically a polyester, which is mostly produced from fossil sources, but is also available in partially bio-based form. Besides using it for plastic bottles, PET can also be used to make fibres, fossil fibres and biosynthetics. After use plastic bottles can be recycled and processed into a spinnable yarn, that can actually be used to make textiles, biosynthetics have nothing to do with this. Recycling in itself does not automatically make a product ‘bio’. Yarn, which is made from plastic bottles, is synthetic. It is called “recycled polyester”, in fact these recycled polyesters make up 14 % (Source), accessed 6 February 2025) of the global polyesters used in the textile industry, with the majority coming from PET plastic bottles.
3. Biosynthetics are from natural origin, so they are biodegradable.
Wrong. The Biodegradability of polymers, the basis for biosynthetics is completely independent of the resource from which polymer it is made of. So being bio-based does not necessarily mean that certain polymers are biodegradable. Biodegradability depends on the end product – in this case textiles made from biosynthetics – which are not necessarily biodegradable. However, as the garment can be turned back into 100% virgin fibre, there is a closed loop, and, in theory, nothing ends up in and harms nature.
4. Biosynthetics are not available in sufficient quantities.
Biosynthetics are one of many applications of bio-based polymers. In general, 17 bio-based polymers are currently commercially available with an installed capacity of over 4 million tonnes in 2023. Ten of these bio-based polymers are used as biosynthetics, resulting in the production of over one million tonnes of biosynthetics.
Biosynthetics have an easily scalable potential as part of the overall portfolio of preferred materials needed to replace the use of new virgin fossil-based polymers in textiles. To enable the responsible introduction and market uptake of biosynthetics for the textile industry, it will be necessary for different stakeholders to work together to address these challenges.
5. Biosynthetics are better than polyesters.
To some extent. Polyesters are a class of polymers, and one application of polymers, specifically polyester, is using them as fibres. Natural derived polyesters are biosynthetics that can fulfil the same properties as fossil derived polyesters. Claiming biosynthetics are generally better than a polyester is therefore wrong, but certain biosynthetic polyesters can be better than fossil-based polyesters from a sustainability point of view.
Discussing innovative approaches like biosynthetics is essential to drive sustainable change within the fashion and textile industry. On 12-13 March, the nova-Institute will host the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025. In a dedicated session “Biosynthetics – Replacement for Traditional Synthetic Fibres”, experts will explore the latest advances, challenges and opportunities in the field.
Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025: Six Innovations are Nominated
Sponsors
Each year, the Cellulose Fibres Conference is supported by wonderful companies that through innovation actively foster the sustainable transition of the textile and fibre industry.
Join us as a sponsor and find a range of sponsoring options which provide you with maximum visibility and impact at the conference. We are open to new ideas and would be delighted to implement them with you. Please contact us if our sponsoring options appeal to you or if you would like to put forward a proposal of your own!
Companies that would like to book an exhibition booth (6m2) can do so for the price of 3,000 EUR (excl. 19% VAT). Included in the booth fee is one conference ticket. The conference exhibition is located prominently within the conference hall so interaction with the participants is guaranteed. Further information here.
Conference Registration
You are welcome to register now! Registration fee will be 1095 EUR (excl. 19% VAT) for both days and 745 EUR (excl. 19% VAT) for the virtual option.
